There’s a world around us. The motto chosen for the 2025 edition of Cheese – the major international exhibition organised by Slow Food and the City of Bra, with the support of the Piedmont Region – seems tailor-made to represent craft beer as well. Because while it is true that the heart of the event beats to the rhythm of wheels, cheesemakers and maturers, it is equally evident that, all around, today there is a more dynamic and vital brewing universe than ever before, capable of interacting with the dairy world without any inferiority complexes. From Central Italy, and in particular from the Marche region, a cohesive, passionate and high-quality presence has emerged. During a pairing workshop dedicated to the excellence of the Marche region, we met Carlo Cleri, a gastronome and beer taster. A leading figure on the national scene, Cleri has been able to combine technical rigour with clarity in communication. The result? Total engagement, going far beyond a simple pairing exercise.
How has the brewing industry in the Marche region developed?
“The focus on craft beer began around 2007. The interest in producing beer was not immediate; it took root later on the wave of national growth that saw the first breweries emerge, especially in the north. Regions such as Piedmont and Lombardy – followed by Tuscany and Lazio – gave a decisive boost, spreading enthusiasm and influences to the rest of the peninsula as well. The debut of Tenute Collesi, a historic distillery in Apecchio (PU), represents one of the first companies in the Marche region to make a decisive entry into the world of beer. Among the pioneers who helped to legitimise the concept was Amarcord: founded in the Rimini area, after various vicissitudes it moved between Romagna and the Apennines of the Alte Marche. Their core business, however, was mainly aimed at large-scale retail”.
Has regional growth been uneven?
“Yes, several small and medium-sized businesses have flourished, mostly family businesses with a strong focus on craftsmanship. In recent years, moreover, a significant boost has come from the south of the Marche region. The direction taken is the right one, as demonstrated by the numerous national and international awards obtained: the Marche breweries very often take the top spot. I’ll tell you more: one of the first Italian malt houses is from the Marche region: COBI – Consorzio Italiano di Produttori dell’Orzo e della Birra – was founded in Ancona in 2003. The commitment and vision demonstrated by its key players are a real asset for the sector”.
Distinctive features and local identity: what are the unique characteristics?
“What sets the breweries of the Marche region apart is their strong link to agricultural tradition. A high level of manual skill is evident – a natural, practical aptitude rooted in a history of sharecroppers and all-round farmers. This background was a key factor in the expansion of the first breweries. It’s no surprise that, in just a few years, they’ve mastered all the key elements needed to become fully-fledged brewers!” The Marche region’s brewing sector still has modest production volumes, but the quality is now fully mature. Carlo adds: “Another trait that stands out is a robust, genuine craftsmanship. Of course, there’s no shortage of creativity: every brewery has managed to find its own voice and even reinvent itself. In the colloquial dialect of the Marche, ‘accroccare’ means to adapt, to make do with ingenuity. There you have it: the region’s brewing identity is firmly rooted in the values of the land, yet capable of expressing itself with great flair and personality”.
Public reception and perception. How has craft beer from the Marche region managed to make a name for itself?
“It has sparked a great deal of curiosity. Consumers in the Marche region are surprisingly open-minded: they don’t judge by appearances or fall for clichés. Through themed evenings, events and tastings, I’ve realised just how receptive they are and how keen they are to explore. This attitude has helped both the growth of breweries and the consolidation of craft beer consumption. There is also another key factor: the great approachability and warmth of the brewers. They have managed to engage everyone, not just enthusiasts and connoisseurs, winning people over with their core strength: quality!”
Looking ahead: what steps can be taken to further strengthen the Marche region’s supply chain?
“Institutions and trade associations play a key role, and this holds true from north to south. One of the most promising avenues is the development of beer-related tourism. Just as people visit wineries, I hope that tours dedicated to breweries will be promoted more and more. An experiential itinerary that brings together all the beauty and goodness we have to offer. A route that could lead Marche beer towards a new era of recognition and promising developments in many other areas”.
